Rope in NZ: What It Is, Types, Sizes, Prices & Where to Buy

Rope is a strong line made by twisting or braiding fibres together so you can haul, lift, tie and secure things safely. In New Zealand that might mean anchor warps and mooring lines on a tinny, pot and net ropes for fishing, guy lines on a tent, or tie-downs on a trailer. Choosing the right rope hinges on three basics: the material it’s made from, how it’s constructed, and the diameter matched to the load you need to handle.

This guide explains rope in plain terms for Kiwi conditions. You’ll learn the difference between rope, cord and twine; which materials cope best with UV, salt and abrasion; how constructions like three-strand, double braid and kernmantle behave; and the key properties that matter—strength, stretch, buoyancy and durability. We’ll cover sizing and safe working loads, common use-cases across marine, fishing, camping/DIY and towing, how to finish rope ends and add fittings, a New Zealand price guide, where to buy in-store and online, plus care, inspection and safety notes.

Rope, cord and twine: what's the difference?

Think of these as size, strength and purpose on a sliding scale. Rope is the heavier-duty line, made from multiple strands twisted or braided for higher loads and long-term durability. Cord is slimmer, still strong for its size, and ideal where flexibility and tidy handling matter. Twine is light-duty, usually a few small plies, for simple tying and bundling rather than lifting or towing.

Rope: Load-bearing jobs like anchor warps, mooring, hauling, tow and tie-downs; typically twisted or braided.
Cord: Smaller diameter utility lines for tent guys, lacing, lashings and gear loops; often braided for smooth handling.
Twine: Light fastening in the shed, garden and crafts (e.g., jute, cotton, or polypropylene); sold in balls or small reels.

Rope materials for NZ conditions

New Zealand’s harsh UV, salt spray and abrasive coastlines punish the wrong rope fast. Picking the right material determines how long it lasts, how it handles, whether it floats or sinks, and how much stretch you get under load. Use the quick notes below to match rope materials to Kiwi weather and water.

Polyester: Excellent UV and abrasion resistance, low stretch, good wet strength; reliable for long-term outdoor and marine use.
Polypropylene (PP): Floats and is lightweight and affordable, but poorer UV resistance; best for short-term or budget tasks.
Nylon (Polyamide): High strength with noticeable stretch for shock absorption; absorbs water and can lose strength when wet.
UHMWPE (Dyneema/Spectra): Very high strength-to-weight, minimal stretch, floats; premium price, sensitive to heat glazing.
Polysteel / Leaded Polysteel: Tough copolymer PP with better abrasion than standard PP; standard floats, leaded polysteel sinks and is often used for potting and commercial fishing.
Natural & synthetic hemp: Natural (manila, jute, cotton) offers great grip and look but rots and weakens when wet; synthetic hemp gives the classic look with far better weather resistance.

Rope constructions and what each suits

Construction is the pattern of twist or braid that locks fibres together. It dictates how a rope handles, how it runs through blocks or a windlass, how easy it is to splice, and whether it stays supple or kinks. For NZ use, pick the build that matches the job and the material: laid constructions give forgiveness and stretch, braids give smooth handling and strength, and kernmantle protects a core for utility cords and specialised rigging.

Three-strand (laid): Easy to splice, forgiving, some twist; anchor warps, moorings, towing.
Double braid (braid-on-braid): Smooth, strong, low–moderate stretch; sheets, halyards, docklines, tow lines.
8–12 plait single braid: Flakes and runs well, resists kinking; windlass-friendly anchor rope, moorings.
Kernmantle (core + sheath): Durable cover protects core; accessory cord, prusiks, hauling lines.
Hollow-braid polypropylene: Light, floats, simple splices; painter lines and general water use.
12-strand UHMWPE (Dyneema): Ultra-strong, ultra-low stretch; winch lines, soft shackles, high-load lashings.
Leaded polysteel: Sinks and stays down; potting lines and groundlines for fishing.

Key properties: strength, stretch, buoyancy and durability

Before you pick a rope, decide which properties matter for the job. Strength keeps loads secure; stretch can protect gear or create slack; buoyancy determines whether lines float near props or lie on the seabed; and durability governs how long rope survives UV, salt and abrasion. The “right” balance changes for anchoring, towing, fishing or tying down a trailer.

Strength: Check rated break strength; double braid and UHMWPE ropes are among the strongest. Knots reduce strength, splices retain more. Allow margin for shock loads.
Stretch (elasticity): Nylon stretches most for shock absorption in anchor warps and moorings. Polyester is low-stretch; UHMWPE is near‑zero for control, winches and road tie-downs.
Buoyancy: Polypropylene and UHMWPE float (visible painters; watch prop fouling). Polyester and nylon sink; leaded polysteel sinks fast for pots and groundlines.
Durability: Polyester excels in UV and abrasion. Polypropylene weathers quickly. Nylon loses strength when wet. UHMWPE dislikes heat and point abrasion. Natural fibres can rot.

Sizing and working loads: what diameter do you need?

Getting rope size right starts with the load, then the environment, then how you’ll handle it. Diameter isn’t only about ultimate strength; it also affects stretch, grip comfort, abrasion life and whether the rope will run cleanly through a windlass, clutch or fairlead. Work from the job backwards: choose material and construction for the conditions, then pick the smallest diameter that safely meets the working load and handles well.

Know the load: Add likely shock loads (waves, braking, gusts) to the static weight you’re holding or hauling.
Use manufacturer ratings: Look for minimum break load (MBL) and working load guidance; knots reduce strength markedly, while splices retain more.
Match construction: Three‑strand and plaits give forgiving stretch; double braid and UHMWPE give higher strength per mm with low stretch.
Check hardware fit: Follow the diameter range your windlass gypsy, blocks, clutches or cleats are designed for.
Prioritise handling: Thicker lines are kinder on hands and chafe less; smaller cords suit lashing and gear loops. Accessory cords commonly run 2–9 mm in NZ.
Consider buoyancy: Floating lines (polypropylene, UHMWPE) vs sinking lines (polyester, nylon; leaded polysteel sinks fast).
Plan length and storage: Longer lines add usable stretch; plaited ropes flake and stow more compactly than laid lines.

Boating and marine rope: anchor warps, mooring and rigging

On the water, rope choice is about control, shock absorption and gear compatibility. Salt, UV and chafe are constant, and a poor match can mean a dragging anchor or a snatched cleat. Start with construction that runs cleanly through your windlass or blocks, then pick a fibre that delivers the stretch or stability the job needs.

Anchor warps: Nylon for stretch and shock absorption; 8–12‑plait or three‑strand handles snatch loads and flakes well. For windlasses, choose windlass‑friendly plaits and confirm the gypsy size. Splice rope to chain with a thimble to reduce chafe.
Mooring lines: Nylon or double braid for a balance of strength, stretch and hand comfort. Add chafe guards at fairleads and consider a rubber snubber if surge is severe.
Docklines: Double braid resists abrasion and is easy to handle; leave lines slightly longer for tidal range and knots/splices.
Running rigging (sheets/halyards): Polyester double braid for low stretch and durability; UHMWPE cores where minimal elongation matters (e.g., halyards, control lines).
Painters and throw lines: Floating polypropylene keeps lines visible; inspect often due to weaker UV performance.
Hardware and finishing: Use proper splices over knots where possible, fit stainless thimbles on eye splices, and heat‑seal synthetic ends to prevent fray.

Fishing and aquaculture rope: nets, potting and leaded lines

On the water, rope choice decides whether gear fishes clean or tangles, drifts or holds bottom. Prioritise buoyancy and abrasion: polypropylene floats and is economical; polyester shrugs off chafe; nylon adds shock absorption; UHMWPE brings very high strength with minimal stretch; and leaded polysteel sinks fast and tracks on the seabed (widely used for potting and commercial fishing). Splice wherever possible to retain strength and add swivels to cut twist.

Nets (head/foot lines): Use floating PP for head/float lines; choose leaded polysteel or other weighted rope for foot lines to keep nets down.
Pots and traps (warps/groundlines): Leaded polysteel for main pot warps and groundlines; reserve floating PP for surface pick‑up lines; fit swivels for retrieval.
Longlines and farm work: Polyester or UHMWPE backbones for strength and control; PP for floats/markers; polysteel or leaded polysteel where lines must resist seabed abrasion and stay down. Follow engineered specs for aquaculture moorings.

Camping and DIY rope: utility cord, guy lines and tarps

For tents, tarps and backyard jobs, pick rope that handles weather, holds knots and is easy to tension. For guy lines, low‑stretch polyester accessory cord in the 2–4 mm range grips well and won’t creep; for ridgelines and heavier lashings, step up to 5–6 mm for hand comfort. Polypropylene is light and bright for short stints but degrades faster under NZ UV. Add short shock‑cord loops at tarp eyelets to soften gust loads, and heat‑seal synthetic ends to prevent fraying.

Guy lines: Use a taut‑line hitch (or tensioners) for quick, slip‑free adjustment.
Ridgelines/tarps: Polyester plaits flake neatly; avoid over‑tensioning tarp grommets.
Lashings/bundles: 3–5 mm cord for pack‑downs; 6–8 mm for general utility ties.
Temporary lines: Floating PP suits painters or wash lines; inspect for UV chalking.
Care: Rinse grit, dry fully, coil loosely, and store out of sun and chemicals.

Trailers, towing and industrial tasks: tie-downs and lifting notes

For road loads and site work, pick rope that holds tension and shrugs off abrasion. Low‑stretch lines like polyester double braid keep cargo from creeping; very low‑stretch UHMWPE suits short, high‑load lashings. Polypropylene is fine for light, short‑term jobs but weathers faster. Avoid springy nylon for tie‑downs—it can relax under vibration. For towing, use purpose‑made tow ropes or strops with a visible rating, and treat recovery work with extra caution.

Tie‑downs: Use low‑stretch polyester (6–10 mm) and a truckie’s hitch or proper tensioners; protect sharp edges and re‑tension after a short drive.
Towing: Use rated tow ropes/strops sized for the vehicle; keep bystanders clear and add a dampener to reduce snap‑back risk.
Industrial tag/haul lines: Bright PP or polyester for visibility; add thimbles, swivels and chafe guards where lines run.
Lifting note: Don’t lift with general rope. Use certified, rated slings and hardware; prefer splices over knots when terminations are required.

Terminations, fittings and finishing rope ends

Good terminations make rope safer, stronger and easier to handle. Where you can, splice rather than knot; use knots for temporary or adjustable connections. Always finish cut ends to prevent fraying, and match fittings to both the rope construction and the loads expected. Add chafe protection anywhere a line bears on hardware or rough surfaces.

Eye splices: Three‑strand, double braid and 12‑strand UHMWPE all splice well; fit stainless thimbles to protect bearing eyes.
Rope‑to‑chain splices: Ideal for anchor warps so the join runs through a windlass without a bulky shackle.
Back splice or whipping: Back splice the end of three‑strand; whip braided ends with waxed twine. Heat‑seal synthetic fibres with a hot knife, then whip for security.
Hardware choices: Use rated bow shackles, swivels on pot warps, and snap hooks only for light duty. Avoid sharp edges that cut covers.
Chafe protection: Hose sleeve, tubular webbing or purpose guards at fairleads and cleats.
Soft shackles: UHMWPE soft shackles give high strength with no metal-to‑deck damage.
Cutting and tails: Tape both sides before cutting; leave generous tails on any knots and inspect regularly.

Price guide in New Zealand: typical per-metre and reel costs

Rope pricing in NZ varies by material, diameter, construction and whether you buy by the metre or full reels/hanks. As a reference point, small‑diameter general braid can be under a dollar per metre—some NZ retailers list 4 mm smooth braid around $0.69/m. Expect to pay more as diameter rises, for UV‑hardwearing fibres, and for specialty builds; full reels usually work out cheaper per metre than counter cut lengths.

Polypropylene hollow braid: Lowest.
Three‑strand nylon/polyester: Low–medium.
Double braid polyester: Medium.
Leaded polysteel: Medium–high.
UHMWPE (Dyneema): Premium.
Accessory cord (2–9 mm): Low–medium.

Tip: compare per‑metre pricing on the shelf tag vs the reel/hank; reels usually save money if you’ll use the length. Always confirm the stated reel length and do the per‑metre maths before you buy.

Where to buy rope in New Zealand (in-store and online)

Where you buy rope in NZ depends on the job. Specialists suit anchor warps, pot warps and rigging; hardware chains cover general DIY; and online works when you know the spec. Compare per‑metre vs reel pricing, ask about cut length and splicing accessories, and check ratings match your load. Action Outdoors offers rope in‑store (Auckland) and online.

Action Outdoors: Marine, fishing, RV and industrial lines; in‑store advice in Auckland plus online ordering.
Hardware chains (e.g., Bunnings, Mitre 10): Budget polypropylene, natural fibres and general braids for around‑home jobs.
Marine chandlers/boating retailers (e.g., Burnsco): Anchor warps, docklines, windlass‑friendly plaits, thimbles and splicing accessories.
Industrial rigging suppliers (e.g., Cookes): High‑performance fibre ropes and rated lifting gear for commercial tasks.
Fishing/aquaculture suppliers: Polysteel and leaded polysteel for pots, nets and groundlines.

Care, inspection and storage to make rope last

NZ’s UV, salt and grit are brutal on rope. A simple routine—rinse, dry, inspect and store—will easily double service life. Treat lines kindly in use (avoid sharp bends and rough edges), add chafe protection where they bear, and retire anything suspect. Store clean, dry rope out of sunlight and away from chemicals or heat sources.

Rinse after use: Fresh‑water wash to remove salt, sand and grime; don’t use bleach or solvents.
Dry fully: Air‑dry loosely flaked; never on hot metal or in direct blazing sun.
Inspect every time: Run the line through your hands; feel for flat spots, hard sections, glazing, cuts, fluffing or core exposure.
Manage abrasion: Fit chafe guards at fairleads/cleats; avoid dragging over concrete or sharp coamings.
Avoid heat/chemicals: Keep clear of exhausts, hot winch drums, fuels and oils.
Coil and stow right: Flake plaited rope; coil laid rope with the lay. Bag or bin in a cool, ventilated, dark place.
Rotate ends: Reverse docklines/warps so wear isn’t concentrated in one spot.
Knots and splices: Re‑dress knots, maintain generous tails; inspect splices and whippings.
Clean gently: Mild soap only; soft brush; thorough rinse.
Retire if in doubt: After shock loads, chemical contamination, or when damage reaches the core/sheath slips.

Safety and compliance: ratings and when to use certified gear

When loads, liability and people are at stake, ratings aren’t optional. Read the manufacturer’s numbers: minimum break load (MBL) is the ultimate; working load limit (WLL) or safe working load (SWL) is the day‑to‑day limit. Your system is only as strong as the weakest link—rope, knot or splice, shackle, hook, anchor point. Never exceed the lowest rating, avoid unknown or unlabelled gear for critical tasks, and retire anything with damage or missing tags.

Lifting/hoisting: Use certified, tagged slings and hardware only; don’t lift with general rope.
Overhead loads and towing recoveries: Use rated strops/ropes and rated attachment points; keep people clear.
Commercial or insured work: Follow site/marina requirements and manufacturer specs; keep receipts and certificates.
Critical moorings and aquaculture: Use engineered layouts with rated rope and fittings.
Knots vs splices: Prefer splices for strength retention; only use competent, proven methods.
Inspect and retire: After shock loads, chemical exposure, glazing, core exposure or unreadable identification, take gear out of service.

In summary

The right rope comes down to matching material, construction and diameter to the job, then checking the ratings and how it will run through your hardware. Balance strength with stretch, choose float or sink as needed, splice where possible, protect against chafe, and store clean, dry and out of the sun. When loads are critical, use certified gear and retire anything suspect.

Ready to kit out your boat, trailer or campsite? For anchor warps, mooring and potting lines, double braid, accessory cord, leaded polysteel, thimbles and splicing bits—plus practical sizing advice—drop into Auckland’s store or shop online at Action Outdoors. Get the right rope first time and head out with confidence.