10 Types Of Fishing Nets And When To Use Them

A fishing net is one of the oldest and most effective tools ever devised for catching fish, and it remains a staple for both recreational anglers and commercial operators throughout New Zealand. With so many net designs available—each suited to different environments, target species, and fishing goals—choosing the right one is more than a matter of convenience; it’s essential for maximising your catch, meeting local regulations, and protecting our unique aquatic ecosystems.

Whether you’re chasing snapper on the Hauraki Gulf, gathering whitebait from river mouths, or managing gear for a commercial operation, understanding the subtle differences between net types can make all the difference. The right net not only increases efficiency but also helps minimise unwanted bycatch and ensures you’re fishing sustainably—a key concern given New Zealand’s strict fisheries rules and commitment to preserving our waterways for future generations.

In this guide, you’ll find a clear rundown of ten widely used fishing nets—each with its own purpose and best-use scenarios, from gillnets and beach seines to trawl, cast, and fyke nets, plus more specialised designs like drift and set nets. For every net type, we’ll cover what it’s for, when to use it, and what to watch out for, so you can fish smarter, stay within the law, and enjoy your time outdoors. Ready to find out which net suits your next adventure? Here are the ten types of fishing nets every Kiwi fisher should know.

1. Gillnets – Versatile Nets That Catch by Entrapment

Gillnets are panels of mesh designed to entangle fish by their gills as they attempt to swim through. Each net panel is suspended vertically in the water column, with fish becoming caught when the mesh slips behind their gill covers. This method is both efficient and straightforward, making gillnets popular for targeting schooling species and demersal stocks alike.

A typical gillnet consists of three main parts:

• Headline (floatline): A rope often fitted with floats or corks to keep the top of the net buoyant.
• Footrope (leadline): A weighted rope, usually lead-core, that ensures the bottom stays on or near the seabed.
• Mesh panel: The netting itself, with mesh size selected to match the size of the target species.

There are two broad categories:

• Pelagic (drift) gillnets: These drift with the current, set in mid-water or near the surface.
• Demersal (bottom-set) gillnets: These rest on or just above the seabed, ideal for flatfish and reef species.

Below is a quick reference for common mesh sizes, target species and deployment depths in New Zealand waters:

For more detailed classifications and legal requirements, see the NZ Fisheries classification.

When to Use Gillnets

Gillnets excel in calm or moderately sheltered waters where you can maintain control over net position and retrieval. In New Zealand, they’re often set:

• From small boats targeting snapper on reef edges at 15–30 m deep.
• Set across estuary channels to catch kahawai and mullet as tides flow.
• As drift nets in open bays where pelagic schools of kahawai or trevally move with currents.

Boat-set nets allow precise depth placement, while shore-set nets require careful planning around tidal patterns to intercept migrating fish.

Pros, Cons and Responsible Use

Advantages of gillnets include low labour once the net is deployed and high catch rates for the intended species. However, there are notable downsides:

• Bycatch of non-target species, including undersized fish and protected marine life.
• Ghost-fishing risk if nets are lost and continue to trap marine animals.

Mitigation measures:

• Fit escape panels or bycatch reduction devices to allow small fish and invertebrates to swim free.
• Mark nets clearly with floats and retrieval lines.
• Retrieve nets frequently and never leave them unattended.

For guidelines on preventing ghost fishing, refer to the DOC ghost-fishing guidelines.

Gillnets vs Seine Nets: Key Differences

• Method of capture:
  • Gillnets entangle fish by the gills.
  • Seine nets encircle and herd fish into a bag.

• Deployment:
  • Gillnets are set and left to soak.
  • Seine nets require active herding and hauling.

• Pros:
  • Gillnets: Low labour after set, good for discrete depth targeting.
  • Seine nets: Selective capture, lower risk of large bycatch.

• Cons:
  • Gillnets: Higher chance of ghost fishing, bycatch.
  • Seine nets: Labour-intensive, need coordinated crew.

2. Beach Seine Nets – Perfect for Shallow, Sandy Shores

Beach seine nets have two long, tapering wings attached to a central bunt or bag. The wings are fitted with ropes at their ends—floats along the top to keep the net open on the surface, and lead- or chain-weighted ropes along the bottom to keep it close to the sand. When deployed, the net forms a semicircle in the shallows, herding fish from open water into the central bunt.

Mesh options range from fine 25 mm nylon for small baitfish up to 100 mm monofilament for larger species like flounder or yellow-eyed mullet. UV-stabilised materials resist sun damage, while knotless meshes reduce injury to delicate species. Reinforced webbing or abrasion-resistant twine and stainless-steel rings at the wing tips ensure durability against sandy and rocky substrates.

 Shoreline
    |
    V
  [Float Line]===================
            \                   /
             \  <---- Net ---- /
              \    Bunt     /
               \___________/
            [Lead Line]--[Lead Line]
                 <-> Wings

When to Use Beach Seine Nets

Beach seines shine on gently sloping beaches, sheltered estuaries or tidal flats where you can wade and haul safely. Ideal conditions include:

• Tide timing: Set the net on an incoming tide to trap fish moving shoreward, or haul on an outgoing tide to catch those pushed into the shallows.
• Substrate: Fine sand or smooth shell beds let weights slide without snagging; avoid rocky reefs.
• Crew coordination: At least two people—one at each wing—drive the net gradually toward the beach, while a third watches for schools entering the bunt.

Typical targets in Aotearoa include whitebait, small mullet, juvenile kahawai and flatfish species that frequent coastal shallows.

Practical Tips for Success

• Calculate rope length: Wings should be at least three times the depth of water in length. For example, in 3 m water a 9 m wing on each side gives ample coverage.
• Hauling technique: Keep a steady angle (20–30°) toward each other as you draw in the wings, preventing fish from slipping underneath. Walk or wade at a consistent pace, and avoid sudden jerks that can tear the bunting.
• Habitat care: Lift nets gently over eelgrass or shellfish beds to minimise disruption. Brush off any seaweed or debris before redeployment to reduce wear.
• Safety first: Wear sturdy boots on soft substrates, watch for sudden drop-offs, and communicate with your crew before every set and haul.

With a well-set beach seine net and a bit of practice, you’ll master a method that’s both efficient for schooling near-shore fish and gentle on the environment.

3. Purse Seine Nets – Enclosing Schools of Pelagic Fish

Purse seine nets are large surrounding nets designed to enclose a school of fish and then “purse” or close off the bottom like a drawstring bag. When the net is set around a visible school, a purse line running through rings at the footrope draws the net’s lower edge together, preventing escape. These nets are staples of pelagic fisheries where fish form dense shoals near the surface.

Key components of a purse seine include:

• Floatline: A strong rope fitted with floats to keep the headline at or just below the surface.
• Purse rings and line: Lightweight metal or plastic rings attached at intervals to the footrope; the purse line threads through them to cinch the net closed.
• Bunt: A reinforced section, often deeper and with finer mesh, where the catch collects once the net is pursed.
• Boat gear: Hydraulic winches, booms or spools to deploy and retrieve the net, plus ample deck space for the bunt and floats.

Typical New Zealand purse seines range from 150–300 metres in length and 20–50 metres in depth, depending on target species and vessel size. They require a coordinated crew and powered equipment—small charter boats often carry nets up to 200 m long, while commercial vessels may use nets exceeding 250 m.

When to Use Purse Seine Nets

Purse seine nets work best where fish gather in tight schools near the surface. In Aotearoa, operators locate these schools by:

• Visual spotting: Watching for surface boil, diving birds or fish breaking the surface.
• Sonar or fish-finders: Pinpointing dense targets beneath the hull.
• Aerial support: Spotter planes in commercial fleets guide placement over large areas.

Common targets include small pelagics like Australian sardine, New Zealand kahawai and blue mackerel. While daylight sets rely on clear visibility, lampara nets—a smaller variant of the purse seine—are often used at night with lights to attract fish, particularly garfish or squid.

Best Practices and Cautions

To maximise catch efficiency and minimise bycatch or net damage, follow these guidelines:

• Plan a smooth, even circle around the school, keeping the floatline taut to prevent gaps.
• Pull the purse line steadily, ensuring the bottom closes uniformly without tearing the mesh.
• Use quick-release knots on bunt exits so any protected species or undersized fish can be returned to the water swiftly.
• Comply with mesh-size exemptions under Regulation 31 of the Fisheries (Commercial) Regulations to avoid penalties—see the full details here: https://www.legislation.govt.nz/regulation/public/2001/0253/latest/DLM77062.html

By mastering the “pursing” technique and respecting legal requirements, you’ll enjoy high yields from pelagic schools while fishing sustainably and responsibly.

4. Trawl Nets – Commercial Workhorses for Demersal and Pelagic Trawling

Trawl nets are the backbone of many commercial fisheries, prized for their ability to cover large swathes of seabed or water column in a single tow. Unlike static nets, trawls are dragged through the water by a vessel, using a combination of hydrodynamic forces and weights to keep the mouth open. Whether you’re targeting prawns in shallow bays or midwater schools of redbait, understanding the anatomy and deployment of trawl gear is vital for both efficiency and environmental stewardship.

A basic trawl rig includes:

• Warps: Heavy-duty wires or synthetic ropes running from the vessel’s winches to the trawl doors.
• Trawl Doors (Otter Boards): Act like kites underwater, spreading the net horizontally.
• Sweeps and Bridles: Lines that connect the doors to the net’s wings, herding fish toward the mouth.
• Ground Gear: Chains or bobbins attached along the footrope to keep the net at the desired height off the seabed.
• Net Body and Codend: The main chambers of mesh that funnel fish to the codend, where they accumulate.

          Vessel
            |
         [Winch]
            |
      Warp (x2)
      /       \
[Otter Board] [Otter Board]
      \       /
      Sweep & Bridle
          ||
    -----------------  <- Ground Gear (chain or bobbins)
          ||
     [Net Body]
          ||
       [Codend]

There are three principal trawl types in New Zealand waters:

• Demersal Trawls: Bottom-set nets for flatfish, hoki and sharks. They rest on the seabed and are ideal in depths from 50 to 600 m.
• Beam Trawls: Simple nets with rigid beams holding the mouth open; commonly used for scallop and small prawn beds in sheltered coastal areas.
• Midwater (Pelagic) Trawls: Lightweight nets towed at a set depth for finfish like redbait, jack mackerel and young kahawai, often deployed 20–150 m below the surface.

When to Use Trawl Nets

Trawl operations demand a vessel equipped with sturdy booms, hydraulic winches and enough deck space to handle bulky nets. Demersal trawls excel when targeting bottom-dwelling species such as snapper, gurnard or tiger prawns, especially over sand, mud or gravel plains. Beam trawls are suited to shallow inlets where scallop beds concentrate, while midwater trawls are preferred in open shelf waters where pelagic schools gather. For example, hoki vessels on the South Island’s west coast often tow demersal gear at twilight to intercept feeding fish close to the seabed.

Trawl Efficiency and Environmental Concerns

Although trawling yields high catches, it can also disturb benthic habitats and capture non-target species. Operators can reduce impacts by:

• Fitting Bycatch Reduction Devices (BRDs) and Turtle Excluder Devices (TEDs) to allow escape of unwanted species.
• Adjusting ground gear to skim just above sensitive seafloor features, minimising drag marks.
• Observing mesh-size regulations to release undersized fish and comply with national rules.

Routine gear inspections and using lighter doors or specialised rollers further diminish seabed abrasion. By combining sound trawl technique with gear innovations, New Zealand fishers balance commercial yield with the ongoing health of marine ecosystems.

5. Cast Nets – Quick, Hand-Thrown Bait Nets

Cast nets are a favourite among solo anglers for gathering live bait with minimal fuss. They consist of a round netting panel attached to a handline, with lead weights sewn along the perimeter. When you flick the net open, it fans out into a flat circle on the water’s surface, then sinks and traps baitfish beneath.

Key design features include:

• Radius sizes: Common diameters range from 6 ft (1.8 m) for small-family rowing boats up to 14 ft (4.3 m) for larger skiffs.
• Mesh sizes:
  • 25 mm mesh for tiny piper and sprats
  • 25 mm mesh suited to small kōkopu 
  • 65 mm mesh for larger mullet or kahawai bait Fish
• Sink rates: Faster sink is achieved with closely spaced weights; a typical net sinks in 1–2 seconds, depending on mesh and lead distribution.
• Materials: Nylon mesh resists rot, while brass or zinc-coated lead weights handle saltwater corrosion. A braided handline with a swivel helps prevent twisting.

Choosing the right mesh and sink rate ensures you catch the right species without losing bait or ripping the net. For more on matching mesh to target fish sizes, check our mesh-selection guide.

When to Use Cast Nets

Cast nets shine in shallow, sheltered spots where baitfish school close to the surface. Typical situations include:

• Calm estuaries and harbour arms: Wait for flood tides when small fish push inshore.
• Rocky points and oyster beds: Schools of sprats or small mullet often mill around structure.
• Under piers and boat ramps: Shaded areas attract baitfish during daylight hours.

Because you can handle a cast net alone, it’s perfect for impromptu sessions. Just wade out, pick a calm patch, and let the net do the rest—no need for a crew or heavy gear.

Tips for Mastering the Cast

Getting the perfect throw takes a bit of practice, but these pointers will speed you along:

1. Folding technique: Fold the net into two halves, then stack each side into figure-eight coils on your non-throwing arm. This builds tension so the net opens fully.
2. Footwork and release: Stand with feet shoulder-width apart, lean slightly forward, and release the net in a smooth, sweeping motion. Aim for a circular spread rather than a half-moon.
3. Retrieval: After the net sinks, pull the handline steadily, keeping tension to close the lead line under the fish.
4. Common mistakes:
   • Overcrowding the coils—leads to tangles
   • Releasing too late—causes the net to crumple
   • Tossing from too shallow—net can snag on uneven bottom

Routine maintenance will extend your net’s life. Rinse thoroughly in fresh water after each use, hang to dry away from direct sun, and patch tears with mono-filament netting twine. A well-cared-for cast net can last for years of bait runs and beach sessions.

6. Fyke Nets – Funnel-Directed Nets for Eels and Crustaceans

Fyke nets are passive, bag-style traps that guide fish and crustaceans into a series of narrowing funnels before they reach a holding chamber. Each net consists of a sequence of hoops—typically made from galvanised steel or durable plastic—covered in mesh and connected by wings that extend up- and downstream. As the target species swim along the flow, they enter the wide mouth of the first funnel, then continue through subsequent chambers, finding it increasingly difficult to backtrack. At the end lies the catch-retention bag.

There are two main frame types:

• Collapsible frames: Lightweight and easy to transport, these fold flat for storage and assembly on site.
• Rigid frames: Heavier but more stable in strong currents or deeper water; often preferred for commercial or long-term deployments.

Mesh sizes for fyke nets usually range from 25 mm (for eels and small mullet) up to 50 mm (for larger crustaceans and bait capture). Monofilament or knotless nylon mesh resists abrasion and reduces injury to captured animals, while UV-treated twine withstands prolonged sunlight exposure.

When to Use Fyke Nets

Fyke nets excel in slow-flowing rivers, lake inlets and shallow estuaries where long, narrow channels guide migrating fish. In New Zealand, they’re synonymous with the annual tuna (eel) run—usually peaking from late autumn through winter—when freshwater eels move upstream to spawn. Crayfish (kōura) and mullet bait also slip through with minimal disturbance. Because nets sit unattended, they’re ideal for overnight or multi-day sets; just be mindful of local regulations on soak times and maximum net lengths.

Setting, Soaking and Hauling Fyke Nets

Anchoring a fyke net requires a secure combination of weights and buoys. Attach a concrete block or heavy weight to the downstream wing, and float the upstream end with a marked buoy for easy retrieval. Position the net so the wings lie parallel to the flow—this directs fish into the funnel mouth rather than around the sides.

• Soak durations: For eels, 12–24 hours captures the most activity; for kōura and mullet, 6–12 hours is often sufficient.
• Haul technique: Approach quietly, lift the buoyed end first, then pull downstream to retain catch in the final bag.
• Bycatch handling: Check your nets daily. Remove non-target species gently, release undersized animals immediately, and inspect mesh for snagged debris before resetting.

With a well-set fyke net and responsible checking routine, you’ll benefit from a low-labour method that honours both productivity and sustainability on our waterways.

7. Dip Nets – Simple Scooping Tools for Small Catch

Dip nets are among the most straightforward and versatile nets you can own. Essentially, a dip net consists of a hoop—typically 30 to 60 centimetres in diameter—attached to a short handle and fitted with mesh that can range from fine (for shrimp and bait) to coarse (for small crabs). Their simplicity makes them ideal for shore anglers, kayakers or anyone needing a quick scoop of fish or crustaceans without hauling bulky gear. Handles come in aluminium, fibreglass or even teak, and may telescope for easy storage. Likewise, mesh materials vary from knotless nylon—gentler on fish—to heavier-duty monofilament suited to snag-resistant tasks.

What sets dip nets apart is their immediacy: there’s no setting or soaking time. You simply position the net under your catch and lift. That ease of use makes them indispensable when you need to land a hooked fish alongside your boat, or when diving into rock pools to collect bait. Despite their modest size, a well-chosen dip net can save hours of fiddling with more complicated traps and give you better control over live or undersized bycatch.

When to Use Dip Nets

Dip nets shine in situations where you want to secure a small catch quickly and with minimal fuss. Common scenarios include:

• Landing fish from a rod and reel, especially around jetties and breakwaters.
• Scooping crabs or shrimp from mudflats, rockpools or estuary edges.
• Harvesting live baits like small mullet, whitebait or kōkopu in shallow water.
• Retrieving fish or pots that have drifted under a boat hull.

Because you can swing them from a standing or seated position, dip nets work well off piers, wharves and dinghies alike. They also give you precision: you choose exactly what goes in and what stays out.

Dip Net Techniques and Selection

Choosing and using a dip net effectively boils down to three key factors:

1. Hoop Diameter and Bag Depth

   • A 45–60 cm diameter suits most shore and boat-landing situations.
   • Deeper bags (30 cm or more) prevent fish or crustaceans from leaping out.

2. Scoop Angle and Movement

   • Approach your target slowly, then place the net at a 45° angle beneath the fish.
   • Lift with a smooth motion rather than a jerky pull to keep the catch centred.

3. Cleaning and Storage

   • Rinse thoroughly in fresh water after each outing to remove salt, grit and seaweed.
   • Hang the net to dry in a shaded, ventilated spot to guard against UV damage.
   • Check mesh for holes and repair promptly with monofilament twine to avoid future snags.

With the right size and technique, a dip net becomes more than just a backup tool—it’s a reliable, everyday companion for all manner of small-scale fishing and bait gathering.

8. Landing Nets – Essential for Catch-and-Release and Live Hauls

Landing nets bridge the gap between a successful hook-up and a safe, uninjured fish in your live well or release chute. Unlike dip nets, which have shallow bags and are best for bait or small critters, landing nets feature deeper pockets and knotless, rubber-coated mesh that minimises damage to scales and fins. Handles can be telescopic for easy stowage, folding for kayak or pack duty, or fixed-length for extra leverage when you’re wrestling larger fish from a boat.

The deeper bag lets you cradle a fish close to its centre of gravity, reducing stress on its jaw and body. Rubber-coated netting prevents hooks from snagging and helps preserve the fish’s protective slime layer—critical for catch-and-release ethics. Whether you’re targeting snapper off a jetty, chasing trout in a backcountry stream or boat-landing a kingfish, a purpose-built landing net is your best friend once the fish is in range.

When to Use Landing Nets

Landing nets excel any time you want to control the final moments of the fight without risking a dropped fish or a hooked finger. Common scenarios include:

• Rod-and-line fishing: From beach to boat, nets let you lift game fish—kingfish, kahawai or trout—gently and quickly.
• Catch-and-release work: Keeping the fish in water until the very last second cuts down on exhaustion and handling injuries.
• Live hauls: Transferring bait or target species into live wells or holding tanks without trauma, ensuring they stay lively and healthy.

On windy days or in choppy water, a landing net gives you a stable hand-hold on the fish while you unhook it. And for kayak fishers or bank anglers who can’t lean over rails, a net lets you secure that prize catch safely.

How to Choose the Right Landing Net

Picking the best landing net comes down to three considerations:

1. Hoop Shape

   • Round hoops are great for general-purpose use and quick scoops of schooling fish or trout.
   • Teardrop/elongated hoops create a narrower mouth but a deeper pocket. They’re ideal for larger target species—snapper, kingfish and sportfish that thrash.

2. Bag Material

   • Rubber-coated, knotless mesh is gentlest on fish, tangle-free and easy to clean—perfect for catch-and-release.
   • Nylon or monofilament mesh can be lighter and cheaper, but it may abrade scales and get hung up on hooks more easily.

3. Handle Ergonomics and Strength

   • Telescopic handles collapse for compact storage—handy on kayaks or in a backpack.
   • Fixed-length or folding designs offer extra rigidity when you need stout leverage against heavy fish.
   • Look for grip materials that won’t slip when wet, such as rubberised sleeves or textured EVA foam.

By matching hoop style, mesh type and handle format to your species and fishing platform, you’ll find a landing net that makes the difference between a fish lost at the last minute and one that swims away ready for your next adventure.

New Zealand law sets strict limits on net dimensions and mesh sizes. Consult the mesh-size regulations under Regulation 31 to confirm what’s permitted in your region. Some marine reserves and inshore zones prohibit drift nets altogether—always verify local restrictions with MPI or regional councils before heading out. By combining proper marking, regular retrieval and compliance with legal requirements, you’ll keep ghost fishing to a minimum and fish responsibly in our shared pelagic habitats.

10. Set Nets – Stationary Nets Including Flounder, Snapper and Mullet Nets

Set nets are fixed in place, relying on tidal or current flow to direct fish into a stationary panel of mesh. Unlike drift or gillnets, these nets remain anchored—either shore-set across channels or boat-set on bottom rigs—until hauled. A typical set net features a lead-core bottom rope to sit firmly on the seabed, a floating headline or corkline to keep the mesh vertical, and one or more pocketed wings that funnel fish into retention chambers.

In New Zealand waters, popular variants include:

• Flounder nets: Broad-mesh panels with deep pockets, fine-tuned to capture flatfish sliding along sandy or silty bottoms.
• Mullet nets: Shore-set rigs with finer mesh and extended wings, designed to intercept mullet moving with the tide in estuary entrances.
• Snapper nets: Boat-set bottom nets with mid-sized mesh, deployed on reef edges or sand channels where snapper patrol.

These nets can be tailored in length and depth to match local conditions. Pockets or “pennants” reduce escapement, while the choice of monofilament or knotless mesh affects durability and handling. By combining a weighted footrope with a buoyed headline, set nets maintain a vertical profile that guides target species into the trap without the constant attention static gears often demand.

When to Use Set Nets

Set nets are most effective where fish travel predictable routes or concentrate around specific structures. Typical scenarios include:

• Shore-set nets across tidal channels or estuary mouths to intercept mullet, kahawai or whitebait runs.
• Boat-set bottom nets are placed on sand leads, reef edges, or between underwater pinnacles to target snappers, gurnards, and flounder.
• Deployment during peak tidal flows, when incoming or outgoing currents funnel fish straight into the mesh.

Timing is crucial: haul nets on slack or mid-tide to reduce bycatch stress, and schedule sets to match seasonal migrations—flounder season peaks in late spring, while mullet move in summer months. In sheltered bays, boat-set nets can remain overnight; in open channels, more frequent checks help prevent ghost fishing.

Customising and Maintaining Your Set Net

Fine-tuning mesh sizes and materials ensures you comply with legal standards and hit your target. Refer to the Fisheries (Commercial) Regulations mesh-size requirements when choosing netting. Common guidelines include:

• 35–50 mm mesh for yellowed eye mullet and small school fish
• 125mm mesh for snapper and larger demersal species
• 125mm Mesh for flounder nets, balancing bycatch reduction and retention

Repairs and upkeep extend net life and maintain catch rates. Keep a splicing kit on board to:

• Patch holes with matching netting twine
• Re-splice broken lead-core ropes or headline floats
• Replace sagging pockets and worn-out pennants

Action Outdoors recently trialled a new flounder net design emphasising deeper pockets and reinforced seams—see the community feedback at https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/new-flounder-net-design_topic107204.html. Regular inspections, fresh-water rinses and daylight drying will keep your set nets ready for the tide, season after season.

Choosing the Right Net for Your Next Fishing Trip

Picking the ideal net comes down to three essentials: your target species, the fishing environment and compliance with local regulations. If you’re after live bait in sheltered bays, a cast net or beach seine is quick and effective, for In estuaries and river inlets, fyke and set nets guide eels and flatfish into your trap, while trawl gears and gillnets suit commercial or deep-water operations.

Equally important is responsible use. Always verify mesh-size rules and area restrictions before you head out, fit escape panels or bycatch reduction devices, and mark or retrieve nets promptly to avoid ghost fishing. Treat non-target species gently and release them quickly to uphold New Zealand’s commitment to sustainable fisheries.

Ready to gear up? Explore Action Outdoors’ full fishing net range for expert-grade equipment, local know-how and sustainable options tailored to every Kiwi angler.