12 Fishing Knot Tying Techniques Every Angler Should Know

Lose a fish to a slipped knot once and you never forget the sting. The truth is, there isn’t a single “best” knot—each line material, hook eye and target species calls for its own hitch, loop or twist. What matters is having a tight little toolkit of proven ties you can knock out without thinking, whether you’re matching wits with pānoko under the wharf lights or lobbing a stick-bait at spring kingfish off Great Barrier. Master just a dozen knots and you’ll cover 99 % of Kiwi fishing situations, keep more gear in the boat and more fish in the chilly-bin.

This guide walks you, step by step, through 12 essential techniques—from the bread-and-butter Improved Clinch to the ultra-slim FG. For each knot you’ll see when to choose it, how strong it really is, and the small tweaks that stop it from failing. The photos and instructions were tested on the water around Aotearoa, so you can trust them to work with local mono, fluoro and braid brands. Grab a spare spool and a mug of tea; by the time you finish practising, your hands will remember every turn and tuck, and your next hookup will land smoothly in the net.

1. Improved Clinch Knot – The All-Round Tackle Staple

Most Kiwi anglers rely on the Improved Clinch for day-in, day-out terminal connections.
It grips the eye cleanly, leaves no bulky tag, and runs through guides without chattering or snagging.

When & Why to Use

• Mono or fluoro 2–20 lb to hooks, swivels, small lures
• Everyday choice for trout, wharf sprats, 1/4 oz soft-bait jig heads
• Retains ~85 % strength; still tieable with frozen or windy fingers

Step-by-Step Instructions

1. Pass tag through eye, wrap standing line five–seven turns.
2. Feed tag back through the first small loop above eye.
3. Push tag through big loop, moisten knot.
4. Pull standing line to snug coils; trim tag to 3 mm.

Pro Tips & Troubleshooting

• Four wraps are enough on mono heavier than 30 lb.
• Always wet line; dry mono scorches and weakens the knot.
• Coils overlapping? Cut and retie—strength drops by half.

2. Palomar Knot – Compact Power for Braided Line

If you only add one braid-specific knot to your fishing knot tying playbook, make it the Palomar. Formed with a simple double line and a single overhand, it beds down evenly on ultra-thin fibres without biting through the coating or slipping under sudden load. The finished knot is small enough to click neatly through micro guides yet strong enough to rate at – and often above – 100 % of the line’s published breaking strain. Handy when you’re pitching soft plastics into gnarly wash zones or threading hooks in the dark on a rocking boat.

When & Why to Use

• Best with braided main line, but also reliable on mono/fluoro to 20 lb
• Rapid tie—great for night sessions and cold hands
• Ideal for drop-shot rigs, soft-bait jig heads, small stick-baits and swivels
• Retains full line strength because load spreads over a doubled strand

Step-by-Step Instructions

1. Double 15 cm of line and pass the loop through the hook eye.
2. Tie a loose overhand knot in the doubled section.
3. Pass the entire lure or hook through the loop.
4. Wet line; pull standing line and tag together until knot cinches.
5. Dress coils so they sit parallel, then trim tag close.

Common Palomar Fail Points

• Tag too short—leaves no room to seat knot properly.
• Tightening overhand before the hook passes through causes line burn.
• For bulky lures, use the “reverse Palomar” so the loop doesn’t jam on hardware.

3. Uni Knot – Versatile Single Knot System

If you only want to memorise one backup knot for those times when the wind is howling and the boat won’t stop rocking, make it the Uni. In the space of a few turns it morphs from a rock-solid terminal knot into a reliable braid-to-leader join, loop knot or even a snell substitute. That flexibility earns it a permanent spot in every angler’s fishing knot tying arsenal.

Best Use Cases

• Quick terminal connections on mono, fluoro or light braid
• Forming a sliding stopper for running sinker rigs
• Building live-bait traces for kahawai or small kingfish
• Emergency loop knot for lures when you forget the Perfection Loop

Uni’s barrel-shaped coils distribute load evenly, giving 90 %+ strength on mono up to 40 lb and around 80 % on slick braid.

How to Tie

1. Thread line through the eye, then double back 10–12 cm so two strands run parallel.
2. Form a loop by laying the tag end over both strands.
3. Wrap the tag around both lines 4–6 times, working back toward the hook eye.
4. Wet the knot, pull the tag to snug the coils, then pull the standing line to slide everything down to the eye.
5. Seat firmly and trim the tag within 2–3 mm.

Variations & Tips

• Leave the knot 1 cm from the eye before final tightening to create a “Sliding Uni” for free-swinging lures.
• Tie two Uni Knots back-to-back for a quick Double Uni leader connection.
• On braid, add an extra wrap or finish with a half-hitch to prevent slippage.
• Practise on thick mono first; muscle memory makes the fine-diameter stuff a breeze.

4. Double Uni Knot – Simple Leader-to-Braid Join

The Double Uni takes the everyday Uni you already know and mirrors it, giving you a tidy, barrel-shaped splice that slips through running guides without the clunk of an Albright and without the fiddly tension games of an FG. For harbour snapper or back-country trout where you’re constantly swapping traces, its speed and reliability beat out more exotic knots. Expect about 90 % of stated line strength if you dress the coils neatly and pull everything up under load before the first cast.

When to Choose Over FG or Albright

• Ideal for joining light braid (up to 30 lb) to mono or fluoro leaders under 80 lb
• Perfect on small boats, riverbanks, or kayaks where long FG wraps are a hassle
• Smooth enough to shoot through size-6 spin guides on 2500 class reels
• Re-ties in under a minute, handy when the bite is hot and leaders abrade on rocks

Tie-in Steps (Each Side)

1. Overlap 20–25 cm of braid and leader.
2. With the braid tag, form a Uni: create a loop, wrap 4–6 turns around both lines, wet and snug.
3. Repeat with the leader tag, using 3–5 wraps (fewer on thicker mono).
4. Pull both standing lines in opposite directions to jam the two knots together.
5. Trim tags flush—closer on the braid, leave 2 mm on mono to cushion impacts.

Strength & Troubleshooting

• Stagger wrap counts to balance differing diameters; more wraps on thinner line.
• Coils must lie side-by-side; crossed wraps cut strength by a third.
• Always glove-test with a hard pull—if knots slide, add an extra wrap and retighten.
• Dab of UV resin on bulky mono tags prevents weed pickup without affecting flexibility.

5. Surgeon’s Knot – Fast & Forgiving Loop-to-Loop Join

The Surgeon’s Knot is the duct-tape of fishing knot tying: quick, sticky and surprisingly tough even when the diameters don’t match. Two stacked overhand knots grip both lines, creating a squat barrel that slides through fly rod guides yet shrugs off shock loads from sudden strikes. Because you pass the entire leader and tippet through the loop together, the knot can be tied in seconds with cold, wet fingers—perfect when a trophy trout is rising and your 6X tippet has frayed on riverbed schist.

Ideal Situations

• Speedy leader repairs when the light is fading or the wind’s howling
• Attaching fine tippet to thicker fly leader without delicate wrap counts
• Emergency mono joins on the boat when the kids create bird’s nests
• Loop-to-loop backing joins for small-game reels

3-Step Instructions

1. Overlap 20 cm of the two lines and form a simple overhand loop.
2. Pass both the tag ends and the full leader/tippet through the loop twice for a Double Surgeon.
3. Lubricate generously, then pull all four strands evenly until the coils snug together; trim tags to 3 mm.

Tips for Extra Holding Power

• Triple the passes (Three-Turn Surgeon) to claw back 5–10 % extra strength on slick fluorocarbon.
• Keep the initial loop large so the lines don’t kink as they’re pulled tight.
• Inspect for hidden figure-eight twists before cinching—any crossover weakens the knot dramatically.
• After trimming, give the join a hard, glove-protected pull; if it beds down further, retighten to avoid on-water surprises.

6. Blood Knot – Clean, Slim Fly-Line Connector

When stacking tippet sections or adding a tapered topshot, bulky knots slap rod guides and spook wary trout. The Blood Knot fixes that with mirror-image wraps that lock into a slim, balanced cylinder only fractionally thicker than the line. It’s a touch fussier than a Surgeon’s, but a few minutes’ practice delivers silkier casts, quieter drifts, and one of the neatest joins in your fishing knot tying arsenal.

Best Use Cases

• Trout leader construction
• Light mono or fluoro topshots for salt-water spinning
• Any situation where a tiny knot must fly through size-6 guides

Tying Breakdown

1. Overlap 15 cm of the two lines, tags pointing in opposite directions.
2. Wrap the first tag 5–7 turns around the other line, then feed it back through the centre gap.
3. Mirror with the second tag—5–7 turns the opposite way, exiting the same gap.
4. Wet thoroughly; pinch both tags and pull standing lines until coils butt neatly. Trim tags close.

Strength & Common Errors

• Delivers about 90 % of rated strength when wrap counts match.
• Pig-tailed failures stem from uneven wraps or tags exiting different gaps.
• On mono heavier than 40 lb drop to four turns each side to avoid coil lock-up.
• Glove-test every join before the first cast – forewarned is fore-armed.

7. Snell Knot (Uni-Snell) – Maximum Hook-Set Efficiency

Traditional anglers swear by the Snell because it lines the leader perfectly along the hook shank, delivering a dead-straight pull when the fish turns and the circle hook bites. The Uni-Snell variation keeps the wraps tidy, is kinder on modern fluorocarbon, and can be tied blindfolded once it’s part of your fishing knot tying muscle memory.

When & Why

• Creates an in-line connection that drives circle hooks home on snapper, kingfish and surf-cast rigs
• Works across mono or fluoro from 20 lb right up to heavy 100 lb live-bait traces
• Keeps the hook eye clear, so baits or lures sit naturally and don’t spin

Step-by-Step

1. Thread the tag end through the hook eye from the point side; leave a 15 cm tag.
2. Lay the tag back along the shank toward the bend, forming a reversing loop beside the leader.
3. Wrap the tag around shank and leader 6–8 tight turns back toward the eye.
4. Pinch the coils, pull the standing line to snug everything; moisten and tension until the wraps lock, then trim tag within 3 mm.

Pro Tips & Troubleshooting

• Always enter from the point side; reversing the direction cocks the hook and weakens penetration.
• On slippery braid, finish with an extra half-hitch over the standing line to stop creep.
• Slip a short length of heat-shrink over the finished knot for abrasion resistance on reefy ground.

8. Loop Knot (Perfection Loop) – Lure Freedom of Movement

Stiff knots can choke the action out of stick-baits and soft-plastics, but a tidy open loop lets a lure swing, dart and flutter exactly as the designer intended. The Perfection Loop delivers that freedom without adding bulk, making it a go-to in any fishing knot tying toolkit—especially when light tackle snapper or kahawai get picky and follow without hitting.

Applications

• Non-slip loop for top-water stick-baits and poppers
• Soft-bait and jerk-shad rigs where natural fall is critical
• Final tippet loop for salt-water and trout fly leaders
• Quick loop-to-loop connection when swapping pre-rigged traces

Quick Tying Guide

1. Make a small overhand loop 10 cm from the tag end.
2. Form a second loop in front of the first; hold between thumb and forefinger.
3. Pass the tag end between the two loops from back to front.
4. Reach through the front loop, grab the first loop, and pull it completely through.
5. Moisten; tighten by pulling standing line while pinching the new loop. Adjust loop to 1–2 cm, trim tag.

Key Points

• Keep loops symmetrical—crooked loops twist leaders.
• Fluorocarbon loses about 10 % more strength than mono; retie after prolonged fights.
• Trim tag flush to stop fouling on weed or guide inserts.

9. Albright Knot – Heavy-Duty Mono-to-Braid Link

When you need a fast, compact join that will stand up to brutal kingfish runs or tuna jigging pressure, reach for the Albright. It cinches slick braid to a thick mono or fluoro leader without the bulky bump you get from double-line knots, and it still rockets through guide trains on casting gear. For anglers who find the FG a bit fiddly in a rocking cockpit, the Albright is the pragmatic middle ground—strong, quick, and easy to memorise.

The finished knot beds the braid coils against a doubled section of leader, so shock loads are spread over a larger surface area and the slippery fibres can’t bite through. Expect around 90 % of published line strength if you snug the wraps firmly and trim the tags tight.

When to Use

• Joining light–medium braid (30–80 lb) to heavy mono or fluoro leaders (60–130 lb)
• Salt-water jigging, popper casting or trolling where long leaders protect against abrasion
• Situations where speed matters and an FG is impractical

Tying Steps

1. Form a 12 cm loop in the leader and pinch it.
2. Pass the braid tag through the loop and wrap back over both legs 10–12 tight turns.
3. Thread the tag back out the same way it entered.
4. Lubricate; hold both leader ends and pull the standing braid until coils bite.
5. Lock by pulling the standing leader; trim tags close.

Enhancements

• Add a single half-hitch in the braid tag to stop creep during long fights.
• A drop of flexible super-glue on the braid coils reduces guide wear over multi-day trips.
• Test under full rod load—if coils jump, retie with firmer tension.

10. FG Knot – Slimmest Braid-to-Leader Connection

Spin reels keep shrinking, guide trains get skinnier, but fish are no smaller – that’s why the FG has become the benchmark braid-to-leader join. Instead of tying a bulky barrel, the braid coils snake around the leader like a Chinese finger trap, spreading load along the leader’s length and squeezing tighter the harder you pull. The result is a knot that glides through micro guides, retains almost full line strength and survives days of stop-start jigging for kingies.

Why It’s Worth Mastering

• Retains 95–100 % of the braid’s breaking strain when tied correctly
• Ultra-slim profile punches further on casts and reduces guide slap
• Handles big diameter jumps (e.g., 15 lb braid to 80 lb fluoro) better than Double Uni or Albright
• Once in muscle memory, it can be finished in under two minutes on a rocking boat

Step-by-Step: Rod-Butt Technique

1. Lay braid over leader at 90 ° about 20 cm from the leader tag.
2. Under firm tension, weave the braid away from you: 1 turn over, 1 turn under, alternating for 20 wraps.
3. Keeping pressure on both lines, tie three half-hitches with the braid around both strands to lock the coils.
4. Pull standing braid smartly; you’ll feel the coils bite.
5. Trim the leader tag flush to the wraps.
6. Finish with four half-hitches on the braid (two each direction) and an optional Rizuto whip for a sleeker finish.

Troubleshooting & Pro Tips

• Slippage means loose initial wraps – maintain tension by trapping braid against the rod butt with your thumb.
• Use stiff mono/fluoro; soft leader collapses and the braid cuts in.
• If coils bunch during the locking pull, cut and retie – an FG can’t be rescued once distorted.
• A dab of UV resin over the finishing hitches protects against guide friction on long expeditions.

11. Bimini Twist – Creating a Strong Doubled Mainline

Some knots strengthen your terminal tackle; the Bimini Twist beefs up your entire mainline. By turning a single strand into a standing double, it shares shock loads across two legs, lifts mono back to 100 % of stated strength and keeps braid hovering around 95 %. That doubled section also makes later leader joins—Double Uni, FG or loop-to-loop wind-ons—quicker and more secure. Game-boat crews swear by it, yet once you understand the rhythm it’s perfectly achievable on the beach or the dinghy transom.

Use Cases

• Building a loop for wind-on leaders when trolling marlin or kingfish
• Forming a doubled braid mainline before tying an Albright or PR Knot
• Adding elasticity to thin PE braid for popper casting or jigging
• Emergency “shock absorber” on mono when running heavy drag settings

Tying Workflow

1. Double 1.5 m of line and hold both tag and standing ends in one hand.
2. Twist 20–25 times by rolling the loop between fingertips.
3. Slip the loop over your knee, foot or reel handle; maintain steady outward tension.
4. Allow the twists to climb toward the loop until they stack tightly.
5. With tension still on, back-wrap the tag end five turns toward the rod tip to lock twists.
6. Pinch the junction, then tie a half-hitch around both legs, followed by another half-hitch around a single leg.
7. Finish with a 3-turn locking hitch, pull everything snug, wetting as you go. Trim tag to 4 mm.

Strength & Handling Tips

• Keep twists even; bunching creates weak spots.
• Store the finished loop under slight tension on the spool to avoid wind knots.
• For braid, coat the final hitches with a smear of UV resin if you’re spending days chasing big fish in abrasive terrain.
• Tag too long? It will snag guides—cut it short and burn with a lighter for a neat mushroom.

12. Arbor Knot – Secure Your Line to the Reel Spool

Every flashy leader knot still fails if the main line can spin freely around the spool. The humble Arbor Knot prevents that embarrassment, anchoring your backing or braid to the reel arbor so pressure transfers to the drag, not the axle. It’s the very first knot to tie on a new outfit and takes less than 30 seconds once you know the moves.

When & Why

• Stops line slippage on alloy or graphite spools
• Works with mono backing, straight braid or fly line
• Essential for consistent drag performance and even line lay

Simple Steps

1. Wrap the line once around the spool arbor.
2. Tie an overhand knot in the tag end around the standing line.
3. Tie a second overhand knot in the tag 2 cm from the first.
4. Moisten, then pull the standing line; the first knot beds against the spool and the second jams as a stopper.
5. Trim tag to 3 mm.

Tips for a Solid Foundation

• Add a layer of electrical tape or 5 lb mono backing under braid to eliminate slip.
• Seat knots on bare metal before loading line tension.
• Date-mark the spool with class and install date for easy maintenance tracking.

Tie Them, Test Them, Trust Them

Knowing the theory is only half the battle. Muscle memory beats smartphone diagrams every time the wind whips up or a snapper blitz kicks off.

1. Practise at home with 50 cm scraps of old mono or bright paracord until you can tie each knot without looking.
2. Wet every knot and pull it up tight; coils should bed neatly with no crossed turns.
3. Stress-test by looping the line round a smooth post, donning gloves and giving it a firm, even yank. If anything slips or clicks, re-tie and note what went wrong.
4. On the water, check critical joins after each fish and before that “just one more” cast.

Master this routine and you’ll fish with confidence, knowing every connection is sound. Need fresh leader material, braid, or a proper knot-puller tool? Drop into Action Outdoors and gear up before your next mission.