RV Water Heater Element: Buy The Right Part For Your NZ RV

Imagine waking to a chilly dawn in your motorhome, stepping into the bathroom expecting hot water and instead receiving a freezing trickle. A worn-out heating element can throw your plans off course and cut short your adventures. Choosing the correct replacement is vital—not just to restore comfort, but to ensure safe operation on New Zealand’s 230 V supply, resist scale build-up in hard-water regions and prolong your heater’s service life.

Tailored for Kiwi RV owners, this guide takes you through each stage: identifying your existing element, matching voltage, wattage and material, navigating NZ’s electrical regulations, and tackling installation and maintenance. Follow these practical steps to avoid expensive mistakes, stay compliant and keep reliable hot water flowing wherever the road leads.

1. Determine Your RV Water Heater Model and Existing Element Specifications

Before you order a replacement, it’s crucial to know exactly what’s already in your tank. A mismatched element can lead to poor performance, electrical faults or even void your warranty. By pinpointing your heater model and logging every detail of the old element, you’ll save time, money and a headache down the line.

Start by gathering any paperwork you have on the water heater—owner’s handbooks, service manuals or previous invoices. If documents are scarce, your RV itself will hold the answers. You just need to know where to look.

1.1 Locate the Data Plate or Manufacturer’s Manual

Most caravan and motorhome water heaters carry a small metal or plastic data plate. You’ll usually find this:

• Mounted on the outside of the heater, behind an access panel.
• Under a bunk or storage bench, often near the hot-water control knobs.
• In some vans, behind a removable trim piece inside a wardrobe or under the sink.

If the plate is hard to read, snap a clear photograph. Note down the model number, serial number and any other codes printed there. Failing a visible plate, check the owner’s handbook or service manual—these often reproduce the same data for easy reference.

1.2 Record Current Element Specifications

Once you’ve identified the heater, it’s time to examine the existing element. Most elements are stamped with key details you’ll need:

• Wattage (e.g. 850 W)
• Voltage (230 V)
• Thread type (1–11½ NPSM is common)
• Immersion length (often in millimetres)
• Material (copper, stainless steel, Incoloy, etc.)

It helps to record these in a simple table as you go. For example:

Jot these down on paper or in the notes app on your phone. If any stampings are faint, circle those for closer inspection or replacement with more durable markings before installation.

1.3 Use Model Details to Find Compatible Elements

With your heater model and element specs in hand, you can cross-reference supplier catalogues and datasheets. Most NZ stockists list dimensions, voltage and wattage prominently—but always double-check the thread pitch and immersion length match your recorded figures.

If you’re browsing online, filter results by your model number or element dimensions. When in doubt, email your recorded specs (and a photo of the data plate) to the supplier. That extra step will ensure they confirm compatibility before you click “buy,” sparing you the cost and delay of returns.

2. Select the Correct Voltage and Wattage for Your RV

Choosing the right combination of voltage and wattage is essential for efficient heating and safe operation on your New Zealand motorhome’s electrical system. Too little power leaves you shivering, while too much can overload circuits and trip your RCD. In this section, we’ll cover how to match your heater element to the standard 230 V supply, pick a wattage that suits your tank size and heat-up goals, and verify that your wiring and breakers can handle the load.

2.1 Understand New Zealand’s 230 V Mains Supply

New Zealand’s nominal mains voltage falls between 220 V and 240 V, with most caravan hook-ups and park power outlets delivering a stable 230 V. Before fitting a new element, confirm the actual voltage at your RV’s distribution board—either by checking the electrical diagram supplied with your vehicle or by measuring with a multimeter. This simple step helps avoid over- or under-rating your element and ensures accurate current calculations.

2.2 Choose Wattage Based on Tank Capacity and Desired Heat Time

Wattage dictates how quickly your water heats up: higher wattage elements shorten waiting times but draw more current. Match your choice to both your tank size and your typical usage pattern—if you’re refilling often or have multiple users, a faster heat-up time could be worth the extra amps.

If you camp solo or mostly shower one at a time, an 850 W element may suffice for a 10 L tank. For families or larger tanks, a 1500 W element (or 2000 W where supported) can save valuable time between showers.

2.3 Calculate Current Draw and Ensure Circuit Capacity

Whenever you bump up wattage, the current draw rises proportionally. Use the simple formula:

I (A) = P (W) / V (V)

For example, a 1500 W element on a 230 V supply draws:

I = 1500 W / 230 V ≈ 6.5 A

Before ordering, check that your RCD and circuit breaker are rated above this figure with a margin—ideally at least 20% higher to accommodate start-up surges. Also verify your cable size matches the load: typically 2.5 mm² copper wiring handles up to 20 A, but consult an electrician if in doubt. Ensuring these protections are in place will keep your installation safe and reliable every time you switch on the tap.

3. Choose the Right Heating Element Material for Longevity

Your heater element’s material has a huge bearing on how long it lasts and how well it copes with New Zealand’s varied water quality. Picking the cheapest copper rod might save you now, but if you’re dealing with hard water or salty marine environments, it could cost far more in corrosion and premature failure. On the other hand, premium alloys like Incoloy can stretch your replacement intervals and give you more dependable hot water on the road.

In this section, we’ll compare the three most common materials—copper, stainless steel and Incoloy—then show why Incoloy S840 is often the best choice for Kiwi RVers. Finally, we’ll cover how to match your new element to your existing heater without triggering galvanic corrosion.

3.1 Compare Copper, Stainless Steel and Incoloy Elements

Here’s a quick rundown of each material’s strengths and weaknesses:

Copper heats quickly thanks to its superior conductivity, but it reacts more aggressively to minerals and chlorides, making it vulnerable in hard-water areas. Stainless steel strikes a balance with decent heat transfer and better corrosion resistance, yet can still pit over time in very hard or brackish water. Incoloy S840, an iron-nickel-chromium alloy, trades some conductivity for outstanding resistance to scale, chloride attack and thermal fatigue—translating into a longer service life despite its higher upfront cost.

3.2 Highlight Benefits of Incoloy S840 in NZ Conditions

Incoloy S840 is specifically formulated to tackle the kind of challenges Kiwi RVers face:

• Scale Resistance: Its surface chemistry discourages calcium and magnesium deposits, so you’ll see fewer blockages and less efficiency loss.
• Marine Durability: Excellent performance in salty or humid environments, ideal if you splash out to a coastal campground.
• Thermal Fatigue: Designed to handle many heating cycles without cracking or warping.

If you’re upgrading or replacing a smaller tank, consider the 10 L 240 V water heater from Action Outdoors. It uses an Incoloy S840 element rated at 1500 W and is a solid match for single-or two-person setups, offering robust longevity and reliable heat-up times.

3.3 Match Element Material to Your Existing Heater

Swapping in a different metal can introduce galvanic corrosion if dissimilar metals contact each other in your heater tank. To avoid this:

• Stick to the same base material when possible. If your old element is stainless steel, replacement with the same material simplifies compatibility.
• Where mixed metals are unavoidable, install a dielectric union or insulating gasket between the element flange and the tank. This barrier prevents the electrical pathways that drive galvanic reactions.
• Check any sacrificial anodes in your system and replace them with ones rated for your chosen element material.

By pairing the right alloy with proper fittings, you’ll protect both your new element and the heater tank itself, maximising your investment and minimising future maintenance.

4. Account for Water Hardness and Scale Prevention

New Zealand’s water quality can differ dramatically from one region to the next. Harder water carries more dissolved minerals—mainly calcium and magnesium—that precipitate out when heated, forming scale on your heater element. Over time, this coating insulates the metal, forcing your element to work harder, drawing more current and eventually failing prematurely. By understanding your local water hardness and choosing the right element design, you’ll protect your investment and keep the hot water flowing longer.

4.1 Check Your Region’s Water Hardness

Most local councils publish water-quality reports showing calcium carbonate (CaCO₃) levels in milligrams per litre (mg/L). A handy example is the Hurunui District Council FAQ on hard water, which outlines how to interpret test results. Typically, New Zealand’s classification runs roughly:

• Soft: 0–60 mg/L
• Moderately hard: 61–120 mg/L
• Hard: 121–180 mg/L
• Very hard: >180 mg/L

If you’re parked in different regions—say swapping between Southland’s soft sources and Waikato’s harder supply—you’ll want to note each site’s average hardness. Armed with that data, you can take preventative measures before scale invades your element.

4.2 Understand How Scale Affects Element Efficiency

When dissolved minerals encounter the hot surface of your heating element, they crystallise into a stubborn layer of scale. Even a thin build-up of 1 mm can reduce heat transfer efficiency by as much as 20 %, meaning your element consumes more power, runs hotter and wears out faster. In the worst cases, scale pockets trap heat locally, leading to “hot spots” that crack the element sheath and cause leaks or electrical faults.

Regularly monitoring build-up and selecting scale-resistant element designs will help you avoid these issues. Remember: less scale means more efficient heating, lower energy bills and a significantly longer service life for your RV’s hot-water system.

4.3 Select Elements with Low Watt Density and Sacrificial Anode

Two key features counteract the effects of hard water:

1. Low Watt Density
   Watt density is the power per unit area of the element’s surface, usually expressed in watts per square inch (W/in²). A low-density element (< 30 W/in²) spreads heat more evenly, reducing localised boiling and scale adhesion. Although these elements take marginally longer to reach full temperature, they withstand mineral attack far better.

2. Sacrificial Anode
   For supplies exceeding approximately 100 mg/L CaCO₃, fit a sacrificial anode in your heater tank. This magnesium or aluminium rod corrodes in place of your element, capturing aggressive minerals before they form scale. Check and replace the anode as part of your annual service—when it’s gone, scale protection stops.

By combining a low-watt-density element with a sacrificial anode, you’ll greatly extend the working life of your replacement and keep cleaning and maintenance to a minimum.

5. Ensure Compliance with New Zealand Electrical Safety Standards

Before you install a new heating element, make sure every step aligns with New Zealand’s electrical rules. Proper compliance not only reduces the risk of electric shock or fire, but also keeps your insurance valid and your warranty intact. The following regulations and standards are particularly relevant to caravans and motorhomes.

5.1 Overview of Electricity (Safety) Regulations 2010

The Electricity (Safety) Regulations 2010 lay down the baseline for all electrical work. Under these regulations:

• All installations and repairs must render the system electrically safe, preventing any foreseeable shock or fire hazard.
• Appliances—including water heater elements—must meet the Essential Safety Requirements defined in AS/NZS 3820:2009.
• Documentation of testing, faults found and corrective measures is compulsory.

For RV and marine setups, WorkSafe NZ guidance offers practical advice on protecting against earth faults, verifying insulation resistance and other key checks specific to mobile living.

5.2 Standards for RV Electrical Installations (AS/NZS 3000 & 3001)

Caravan and motorhome wiring must also adhere to two core standards:

• AS/NZS 3000:2007—often called the Wiring Rules—sets out requirements for fixed wiring, earthing arrangements, RCDs and circuit protection.
• AS/NZS 3001:2008 focuses on installations in transportable structures, covering circuit segregation, voltage-drop limits and wiring routeing to avoid chafing or mechanical damage.

When fitting your new element, its circuit should be protected by an RCD (typically 30 mA) and a dedicated breaker rated above the element’s current draw. Use appropriately sized cables—2.5 mm² for most 10–15 A circuits—and route them through protected conduits or cable trays where exposed.

5.3 Warrant of Electrical Fitness (WoEF) and Licensing

After completing any substantial electrical work, you must obtain a Warrant of Electrical Fitness (WoEF). This certificate:

• Affirms the work meets all relevant regulations and standards.
• Remains valid for four years.
• Must be issued by a licensed electrician or an approved person under the Electricity Act.

Even if you’re comfortable doing the swap yourself, hiring a licensed electrician to issue the WoEF ensures compliance, maintains insurance cover and avoids complications if you sell or present your RV for inspection. Safety and peace of mind are worth the investment.

6. Compare RV Water Heater Element Options Available in New Zealand

Shopping around for a replacement element lets you balance cost, warranty and delivery to find the best fit for your budget and timeline. Here’s how to survey the market and narrow down the right supplier for your RV water heater element.

6.1 Identify Major NZ Suppliers and Their Stock

New Zealand has several reputable stockists that cater specifically to RV and marine water-heating needs. Common names include:

• RV Mega
  Offers a wide range of heating elements—including Atwood and Suburban brands—plus related parts for caravans and motorhomes. Fast NZ-wide shipping and accessories are available.

• RV Super Centre
  Stocks popular Truma and Atwood elements, plus genuine manufacturer parts like Truma Ultrastore 850 W replacements. Known for comprehensive warranty options.

• RV Supplies
  Carries generic and branded elements, plus connectors and gaskets. Their online catalogue includes part specifications, making it easy to cross-check dimensions.

• Burnsco
  A general marine and RV outfitter with Suburban replacement elements, plus technical advice on installation. Multiple branches across the country.

Before ordering, visit each supplier’s website or call to confirm they have your model’s thread type, immersion length and material in stock. Inventories can vary, so a quick check saves you waiting weeks for a back-order.

6.2 Compare Prices, Warranties and Delivery Terms

Price isn’t the only consideration. A longer warranty may offer greater peace of mind, while a slightly higher freight cost could still work out cheaper if lead times are short. Use this template to capture the key details:

Fill in each row as you gather quotes. Don’t forget to note any restocking fees or minimum-order surcharges that might apply.

6.3 Check Local Pickup and Expert Advice Options

If you’re in Auckland or passing through, local pickup can shave days off delivery and eliminate freight costs altogether. Many stockists—particularly larger outlets—offer in-store consultations where staff can:

• Verify your element’s thread pitch and immersion length against returned specs.
• Recommend material upgrades (for example, swapping copper for Incoloy).
• Show you complementary parts like gaskets, anodes or dielectric unions.

Even if you ultimately order online, a quick visit can confirm you’ve got the right part in hand, leaving installation straightforward and stress-free. If you’re closer to Wellington, Christchurch or other regional centres, check for stockist branches nearby—you might be surprised how many outlets carry common RV heater elements off the shelf.

7. Purchase and Ordering Best Practices

Ordering the right RV water heater element can feel straightforward until you’ve clicked “buy” and then discover an unexpected thread size, a hefty restocking fee or a long rural delivery wait. These best practices will help you avoid common pitfalls, keep costs down and ensure your replacement arrives ready to fit.

7.1 Double-Check Specifications Before Ordering

Nothing derails a project faster than receiving an element that doesn’t fit. Before you hit “purchase,” take these steps:

• Photograph the existing element in situ, capturing any stamped markings, immersion length and thread form.
• Create a spec sheet listing voltage, wattage, thread size, immersion length and material.
• Email this to your supplier—along with the data-plate photo—and ask them to confirm compatibility.
• If they offer drawings or datasheets, compare your measurements to ensure a perfect match.

A quick exchange of emails or a phone call to verify details can save you the cost of returns and days of downtime without hot water.

7.2 Review Return Policies and Warranties Carefully

Even with all specs correct, things can go awry in transit or you may spot a defect on arrival. Before you finalise an order:

• Check the supplier’s return window and any restocking fees. Some vendors allow 30 days for a no-questions-asked return, whereas others may charge 15–20 % to process a customised part.
• Look at warranty coverage—how long it lasts, what it covers (elements only or also gaskets and anodes), and whether labour or freight is included.
• Ask about proof-of-purchase requirements, and keep all packaging intact until you’re fully satisfied with the part.

Understanding these terms up front gives you leverage if you need to swap or refund your element, helping avoid unwelcome surprises.

7.3 Plan for Shipping, Taxes and Customs

Delivery costs and lead times can add significantly to your total outlay—especially if you’re ordering from overseas or in a rural location. Here’s how to keep these under control:

• Compare domestic stockists for rural-surcharge policies. Some couriers add a fixed fee for non-urban delivery, while others charge per kilometre.
• Factor in GST on imports (15 %), plus any duty or handling fees if sourcing from outside NZ. Look for suppliers who offer DDP (Delivered Duty Paid) to avoid chasing customs yourself.
• Choose a trackable service with insurance—water heater elements are fragile and replacing a damaged part under insurance is far easier than filing a claim without cover.
• If you’re short on time, see if a local branch stocks your model for same-day or next-day pickup.

By planning ahead for true landed cost and delivery timelines, you’ll ensure the part arrives when—and where—you need it, without hidden fees sneaking into your budget.

8. Prepare for Installation: Tools, Parts and Safety Steps

Before you swap out your old element, laying out everything you need and following strict safety routines will make the job quicker and minimise the risk of damage or injury. In this section we’ll cover the essential toolkit, pre-installation checks to keep you safe and the final inspection of your new element and gasket before you start.

8.1 Gather Necessary Tools and Replacement Parts

Collecting the right tools and components in advance prevents frustrating trips to the hardware store once you’ve drained your heater. You’ll need:

• Adjustable spanners (one large for the element hex, one smaller for fittings)
• Teflon tape or thread sealant tape (for leak-free threads)
• New gasket (usually supplied with your element)
• Silicone sealant (food-grade, high-temperature)
• Drain hose or pan (to catch hot water safely)
• Heavy-duty gloves (heat- and cut-resistant)
• RCD tester or multimeter (to verify power isolation)
• A clean cloth or Scotch-brite pad (for flange cleaning)

Lay everything out on a clean, level surface near your access panel. Having spares of Teflon tape and gasket on hand means you won’t be held up if a seal looks compromised during assembly.

8.2 Pre-Installation Safety Checks

Working on a live water heater without precautions can lead to burns, electrical shock or flooding. Follow these steps before touching the element:

1. Isolate the power

   • Switch off the breaker dedicated to the water heater at the distribution board.
   • Confirm isolation with an RCD tester or multimeter—there should be zero voltage at the element terminals.

2. Drain the heater

   • Open the pressure-relief valve to vent the system.
   • Attach your drain hose or position a pan under the drain outlet and carefully remove the drain plug.
   • Allow the hot water to cool and drain fully before proceeding.

3. Wear your PPE

   • Don gloves to avoid burns and protect against sharp edges on the element flange.
   • Eye protection is wise if you’re working in tight spaces where debris might flick.

4. Prepare the workspace

   • Ensure good lighting and ventilation.
   • Keep towels or rags handy to mop up any drips.

Completing these checks not only keeps you safe but also helps prevent damage to your RV’s interior and electrical system.

8.3 Inspect New Element and Gasket

Before fitting, give your new element and gasket a thorough once-over:

• Flange flatness
  Lay the element flange on a flat surface (like a bench or spare piece of glass). If it rocks, a warped flange may not seal correctly.

• Gasket seating
  Place the gasket in the groove. It should sit flush, without twists or tears. A damaged seal is a common source of leaks.

• Sealant application
  If recommended by the manufacturer, apply a thin bead of silicone sealant around the gasket face or over the threads. Avoid excess—too much sealant can squeeze into the tank and obstruct the element.

• Thread check
  Hand-thread the element into a spare fitting or nut to ensure the pitch is correct and there’s no cross-threading. Smooth engagement at this stage avoids binding once the element is in the tank.

With tools at the ready, safety steps complete and your new component confirmed leak-free, you’re all set to tackle the installation itself. In the next section, we’ll walk through the step-by-step replacement process so you can be sure of a watertight, reliable fit.

9. Step-by-Step Replacement of Your RV Water Heater Element

With your preparations complete and safety checks out of the way, it’s time to swap in your new element. Follow each step carefully to ensure a leak-free, electrically safe installation. Keep your tools within reach and refer back to Section 8 if you need a reminder of any pre-installation tasks.

9.1 Drain the Heater and Depressurise the System

1. Isolate power

   • Switch off the dedicated breaker at your distribution board.
   • Verify zero voltage at the element terminals using your multimeter or RCD tester.

2. Vent and drain

   • Open the pressure-relief valve or hot-water tap to admit air.
   • Attach a suitable hose or place a drain pan beneath the heater’s drain outlet.
   • Remove the drain plug and allow all water to escape. Hot water can scald—wear heat-resistant gloves and stand clear of the jet.

3. Cool down

   • Give the empty tank some time to cool; this prevents warping or accidental burns when you remove the element.

9.2 Remove the Old Element and Clean the Mounting Flange

1. Loosen the element

   • Using the large adjustable spanner, turn the element hexagon counter-clockwise. If it’s seized, apply penetrating oil and let it soak for a few minutes.

2. Extract the old element

   • Carefully lift it from the tank. Avoid tipping the tank to prevent debris from scratching the lining.

3. Clean the flange surface

   • Remove scale, old gasket material and corrosion with a Scotch-Brite pad or a fine wire brush.
   • Wipe the flange and surrounding area with a clean cloth to ensure a smooth, contaminant-free sealing surface.

9.3 Install the New Element and Seal Properly

1. Fit the gasket

   • Place the new gasket into its groove, ensuring it sits flat without twists.
   • If the manufacturer recommends, apply a thin bead of food-grade silicone sealant around the gasket face.

2. Thread the element

   • Hand-screw the element into the flange until it seats evenly.
   • Use your spanner to tighten firmly—feel for even compression of the gasket. Avoid over-torquing, which can warp the flange or crush the seal.

3. Final checks

   • Confirm the element flange lies flush against the tank.
   • Wipe away any excess sealant that may squeeze out during tightening.

9.4 Refill, Bleed Air, and Test for Leaks

1. Close outlets

   • Reinstall the drain plug and ensure the pressure-relief valve is closed.

2. Refill the tank

   • Turn on the cold-water inlet slowly. Listen for a steady stream without sputtering.

3. Bleed trapped air

   • Open a hot-water tap until water flows smoothly, then close it. This step prevents air pockets that can stress the element.

4. Inspect for leaks

   • Thoroughly check around the element flange and drain plug. If you spot any drips, isolate and tighten gently. Never power up with a leak present.

9.5 Restore Power and Verify Heating Performance

1. Power up

   • Switch the breaker back on and reset your RCD if it has tripped.

2. Activate the heater

   • Set your thermostat to the desired temperature.

3. Monitor the first heat cycle

   • Confirm the element draws current (using your multimeter) consistent with its rating.
   • Listen for any unusual noises and watch for tripped breakers.

4. Final verification

   • After 10–15 minutes, check for consistent hot-water delivery and no leaks around the element or plumbing fittings.
   • If everything looks good, you’re ready to enjoy reliable hot water on your next adventure.

By following these steps methodically, you’ll have replaced your RV water-heater element safely and efficiently. In Section 10 we’ll cover routine upkeep to keep that new element performing optimally for years to come.

10. Maintain Your New Element for Maximum Lifespan

Installing the right water heater element and fitting it correctly is half the battle. The other half is sensible ongoing care. A little maintenance goes a long way: it keeps heating efficient, cuts power bills and helps you dodge roadside dramas. Here are the key tasks to slot into your RV-care routine.

10.1 Schedule Regular Service Intervals

Set a yearly date—ideally at the end of your high-season run—to give your heater a full check. Even if you’re back-to-back with camping trips, an annual service prevents surprises:

• Inspect the element flange and wiring for corrosion or loose connections.
• Verify thermostat operation by checking that water reaches the set temperature without tripping breakers.
• Examine all seals and gaskets for cracking or compression set.
• Note any drop in performance or unusual noises.

Jot these checks into your maintenance log. If you tick them off every year, you’ll spot minor issues before they become major headaches.

10.2 Check and Replace Sacrificial Anodes

If your heater has a sacrificial anode—common when water hardness exceeds 100 mg/L CaCO₃—this rod does the heavy lifting by corroding in place of your element. Over time it wears away and must be renewed:

1. Isolate power and drain the tank as per Section 8.
2. Unscrew the anode (usually located under the same access panel).
3. Measure its remaining length: if less than 50 % of the original, replace it.
4. Fit the new anode, tighten to spec and refill the tank.

Replacing the anode annually or whenever you re-service the element ensures continued protection against scale and corrosion.

10.3 Clean and De-Scale the Heater Tank

Even with low-watt-density elements and anodes in place, scale can accumulate. A twice-yearly de-scale blitz keeps things flowing smoothly:

• Drain the heater completely.
• Fill the tank with a 1:1 mix of warm water and white vinegar (or a commercial descaler).
• Let it soak for 4–6 hours to dissolve mineral deposits.
• Flush thoroughly until the outlet runs clear—disconnect hoses if necessary to chase out every last trace.
• Top up with fresh water, bleed air and power up.

For stubborn build-up, a second soak or a specialist RV-safe descaling agent may be needed. Just be sure to rinse well to protect your new element and anode.

10.4 Diagnose and Fix Common Problems

Even the best elements can misbehave. When issues crop up, a systematic approach gets you back in hot water:

• Symptom: No heat
  Likely cause: Blown element or tripped breaker.
  Remedy: Test continuity with a multimeter and inspect the RCD/circuit breaker.

• Symptom: RCD trips when element switches on
  Likely cause: Moisture ingress or compromised insulation.
  Remedy: Isolate power, remove and dry the element housing; replace if there’s visible damage.

• Symptom: Fluctuating temperature
  Likely cause: Failing thermostat or air pockets.
  Remedy: Bleed air from the system; test or swap out the thermostat.

• Symptom: Leaks around the flange
  Likely cause: Worn gasket or uneven tightening.
  Remedy: Drain, retighten to correct torque or install a new gasket/sealant.

If these steps don’t do the trick, it’s time to call in a professional. A licensed electrician or RV technician will have the tools and know-how to pinpoint elusive faults and keep your motorhome safe.

With these maintenance tips under your belt, your replacement element should deliver reliable hot water for years—saving power, downtime and costly emergency call-outs. Enjoy the comforts of home, no matter how far off the beaten track you roam.

Securing Your Replacement RV Water Heater Element

By working through these steps—identining your heater model, choosing the right voltage and wattage, selecting a corrosion-resistant material, accounting for water hardness, meeting New Zealand’s electrical standards and following proper installation and maintenance routines—you’ll end up with an RV water heater element that fits perfectly, performs efficiently and lasts for years to come. Taking care with measurements, protective fittings and safety checks not only protects your investment but keeps your rental or family motorhome running smoothly on every trip.

Remember, a little planning pays off: double-check specs before ordering, compare local suppliers for price and support, gather all the right tools and don’t skip the final leak and electrical tests. And once your element is in place, regular anode checks and descaling will preserve heat-up times and reduce power use.

Ready to find the perfect replacement element or get personalised advice? Visit the Action Outdoors homepage for our full product range, expert guidance and details on our Auckland store. Let us help you secure reliable hot water for your next New Zealand adventure.